设为首页 - 加入收藏 - 网站地图
当前位置:主页 > 时尚花边 > 正文

#SuzyLFW:J.W.Anderson

时间:2019-02-11 02:05 来源:网络整理 作者:采集侠 阅读:

J.W.Anderson Autumn/Winter 2017

indigital

As models walked purposefully through the narrow walls, often in complex outfits, it was more or less impossible to take everything in at the J.W.Anderson show.

Here was a simply beautiful dress with a gilded pattern and nothing complicated but different length sleeves. Or a dress with white pleated bib like something carved in alabaster – except that it swayed gently across the body.

J.W.Anderson Autumn/Winter 2017

Indigital

Yet there were as many ideas from Jonathan Anderson as there were complex additions: purses hanging from a neck piece on a pin-striped dress that was cut on the bias with skirt folds flowing every which way. When the designer carried off his fashion flourishes they could be stellar, like a skirt with twin inserts of silver and gilt paired with a leather jacket cropped only just below bare breasts.

J.W.Anderson Autumn/Winter 2017

Indigital

The more you tried to capture the moment, the harder it seemed: drapes here, flowers there and then a flutter of ostrich feathers. Yes, opposites attract – especially if you are Jonathan Anderson with enough ideas to design all this and the Loewe brand too. As the show came towards its end with an absolute winner – an olive green silk dress that seemed to have been poured in a thin stream over the body – I was determined to go backstage.

J.W.Anderson Autumn/Winter 2017

Indigital

But I did not feel much the wiser when I had found the designer, who was wearing the runway olive green colour as a zippered jacket with torn jeans. Words tumbled out as he tried to explain his thought process.

“It's the idea of building up layers – and there are kind of couture edges that can be warped and disrupted – like the feathers,” he said. “You know that things shouldn’t really work but they kind of make it. Like dropping the waistline to compensate for not having a heel.”

J.W.Anderson Autumn/Winter 2017

Indigital

Jonathan went on to pick out some specific clashes, like brocade that faced off against a completely different material like leather. He also talked about the insertion of pockets, giving a 'utilitarian' look even to fur.

#SuzyLFW:J.W.Anderson

J.W.Anderson Autumn/Winter 2017

Indigital

So, was all this planned as disruptive and off-key?
“No, it’s not awkward – except in the combination of fabrics – the idea that you try to devalue it through the process,” he said. “So you get the skirt which becomes more like streetwear. Then you up it with leather to make it more for daytime. I like this idea where the look became a bit Dickensian. And I just wanted to explore something that was reduced to an extent. The idea of the silhouette as if it was an incline drawing it upwards – and then it fades out.”

(责任编辑:凤凰广播网)

顶一下
(0)
0%
踩一下
(0)
0%
发表评论
请自觉遵守互联网相关的政策法规,严禁发布色情、暴力、反动的言论。